Inspiration for Fall Cooking

Of my many books, there are two food books by the photographer Robert Freson, that have been my inspiration over the years. One book is "The Taste of France". The second is "Savoring Italy". 

I discovered these two books while searching for a photographer for an ad campaign for The Foods and Wines of Italy. I browsed the bookstores, searching for photography that wasn’t commercial in it’s style but something that spoke to the authentic, at home feeling of Italy. 

The cover of "The Taste of France". photo by Robert Freson.  Just look at the cover photograph, and the environment created for the simple presentation of cheese, bread and wine. First, the rustic wood of the table, the crusty loaf of bread in a used basket, crumbs spilled onto the table, as it would be, the wine poured from a pitcher, into an unassuming glass. A woven rustic tray holds the beautiful selection of cheeses and the natural light of the day gives warmth and intimacy to the picture.

Talk about inspiring!

The cover of "Savoring Italy" by Robert Freson.
In this photo, Robert builds the story of the food. The still-life is a collage of ingredients that make up the final dish. The ingredients always fresh and layed out with the vision of a cook and artist.

The photo above is an ad we did with Robert Freson. A mouth-watering setting. Put a fork into the Osso Buco and saffron rice and sip and savor the Chianti Classico from Tuscany.

Being the exceptional artist that Robert is, his photographs make the food come alive,
delivering the very essence that represents authentic Italian cuisine. 
I would say that Robert Freson has influenced and inspired the way I like to cook and entertain, with a real down- to- earth presentation to all the senses.

Here is a menu from one of my journals with dishes from  "Savoring Italy" cookbook above. 

I will give you three of the recipes, from his book, which are very simple and easy to follow . You feel like you are in Tuscany cooking and then eating the meal.

I will sometimes break this meal down into two separate dinners. Sometimes I don't feel like several courses. Instead  I can have pasta as a main course and simply add a salad. Or serve the pork loin as a main course after a salad or a soup.

Bucatini Amatriciana

recipe adapted from the Cacciani family of the Ristorante Cacciani, Frascati http://www.cacciani.it/ristorante/ristorante.htm

Serves 4

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

8 ounces pancetta ( pancetta is Italian bacon, made from pork belly) or bacon, diced to yield 1 ½ cups

1 clove finely chopped garlic

½ cup white wine

One 28-ounce can plum tomatoes, finely chopped, with liquid

1/2  Serrano chile pepper, finely chopped or ½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

salt to taste

*time saving tips-

* chop and prepare all your ingredients the day before.

1 pound bucatini ( bucatini is a thick spaghetti with a hole running through the center) or perciatelli pasta, another thick spaghetti with a hole in the center.

2/3 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for topping

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves (optional)

In a large pan, large enough to hold the pasta when cooked, saute the chopped onion in the oil until golden brown. Add the pancetta and the garlic and continue cooking for about 5 minutes. Pour in the wine and cook at high heat, until it evaporates. Add the tomatoes and their liquid, chile pepper, and salt.Stir to incorporate all the flavors and lower heat. Simmer for about 30 minutes.

Bring a pot of water to a rapid boil. Add a tablespoon of salt to the water. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, "to the tooth". Taste the pasta to make sure it has a slight chewiness. Drain the pasta and add it to the pan with the sauce. Add the cheese, and basil if desired. Stir over low heat for 1 minute and serve with more grated cheese on the side. You can make up the plates in the kitchen or present it family style in a large bowl and bring to the table to serve.

Restaurant Cave di Maiano. ( recipe below for Roast Pork Loin)

Roast Pork Loin

recipe adapted from Aldo Landi of the Cave di Maiano, near Fiesole. http://www.2spaghi.it/ristoranti/

toscana/fi/fiesole/cave-di-maiano/

 

Serves 4

2 pounds loin  of pork with ribs

3 cloves garlic, sliced length-wise

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

*time saving tip-

*prepare the pork loin by studding it with the garlic and rosemary, and rubbing with oil, salt and pepper. Refrigerate  overnight. 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

Make slits in the pork loin and insert the garlic and rosemary. Rub the loin with salt and pepper, brush with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place the meat in a roasting pan, pouring the rest of the oil over the meat in the pan.

Roast the meat uncovered for about 15 minutes, or until it has browned all over. Lower the temperature to 375 degrees F. and bake for another 45 minutes, turning the meat and basting it occasionally. When the meat is done, cool briefly, slice thinly, and serve with its juice.

Beans in Tomato Sauce

adapted from Aldo Landi of the Cave di Maiano, near Fiesole

Serves 4

2 cups dry cannellini beans

4 cloves garlic, peeled

2 medium stalks celery

2 fresh sage leaves, or 1/4 teaspoon dried sage

1 medium carrot, peeled

1 medium onion, peeled

salt to taste

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

freshly ground pepper to taste

2 cups canned plum tomatoes, roughly chopped

*time saving tip-

*Cook the beans a day ahead and refrigerate until ready to finish the dish.

Rinse the cannellini beans. Put the beans in a pot with enough cold water to cover 1 inch above the beans. Add  3 garlic cloves, the celery stalks, 1 sage leaf, or 1/8 teaspoon dried sage , the carrot, and the onion.

Cook the beans for about 2 ½ hours, simmering over low heat. Make sure there is always enough water covering the beans. The beans are done when they are soft and  e be slightly smashed with the back of a spoon. Add salt during the last 15 minutes of cooking. When the beans are done, drain in a colander, removing the vegetables.

* The beans can be cooked and refrigerated overnight at this point.

Chop the remaining garlic clove and sage leaf, or dried sage. Heat the oil in a large pan and add the chopped garlic and sage, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Do not burn. Add the bens, more salt if desired and pepper. Cook the beans over  medium heat, stirring and shaking the pan, so the beans don’t stick to the bottom Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for about 15 minutes. Add olive oil and more salt and pepper to taste, right before serving.

 Baked Pears

recipe from Chef fulvio de Santa of the reataurant Peck, Milan.  http://www.ristorantecracco.it/en.ristorante.asp

Serves 6

6 large firm pears

1 cup dry Marsala wine

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup water

1 stick cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

Stand pears in a large baking dish. Pour the wine over the pears, sprinkle them with the sugar, then pour the water into the dish and put in the cinnamon stick. Bake for 1 ½ to 2 hours, until the pears are soft, basting every 20 minutes.

* The pears can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight.

Serve warm or cold, with the sauce poured over.

Whipped cream optional.

To my friend Robert Freson and his wife Jeanette,We loved the time we spent together enjoying food and wine.

As always,

xxoo Sheila